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New in Laos is everything that’s old. That’s because Laos
is just now opening up to the outside world. What’s
exciting about Laos for tourists is that Laos is the
least changed destination in all Southeast Asia. Laos
remains Laos of ages past. More than anything else,
its rural life and population remain unchanged. Many
hilltribe villages have yet to see foreign faces. Nothing
is fake or put on for tourists. Everything is authentic.
Polite smiles and everyday helpfulness come from the
heart.
Infrastructure--for example, roads, bridges, and aviation
services—are fast improving. It is much easier today
getting around then it was even 5 years ago. Vientiane,
the capital, and Luang Prabang, the former royal capital,
have new international airport terminal buildings. Flight
time between the two cities is only 30 minutes. However,
it is getting increasingly popular to drive between
the two cities, something which can be done in a day,
although many people overnight in Vang Vieng due to
its scenic beauty.
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1. WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO TRAVEL?
The coolest months are December through February. Air conditioning
is then unnecessary. And notice that houses in Luang
Prabang have chimneys—nighttime temperatures can approach
freezing but daytime can be like spring in Europe, North
America and Japan. March through May are the hottest
months, sometimes exceeding 40C for a few days at a
stretch. June through August are the wettest months,
and high temperatures seldom exceed 28C or 29C due to
extensive cloud cover. It is lush then, and the sun
does poke through from time to time, making it excellent
for photography. September through November the rains
taper off and the dry season starts to dominate rural
and city life. There is something special about every
season. There is no reason to procrastinate.
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2. IS IT SAFE TO TRAVEL? ARE THERE PLACES TO AVOID?
You are welcome everywhere. The International press tends
to sensationalize the occasional blip on the domestic
radar screen. Backpackers and families are equally secure
in moving around. And travel insurance is easily purchased
and the premiums are remarkably reasonable. Embassies
and local travel personnel are in perfect positions
to know the ins and outs what’s hot and what’s not.
New destinations constantly open up throughout the year.
It is always advisable to ask what’s going on when you
get there
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3. WHAT ARE THE VISA REQUIREMENTS AND CUSTOM FORMALITIES?
Visas are available upon arrival at Wattay International Airport,
Luang Prabang International Airport and the Friendship
Bridge. The price is US$30 and they are vaild for 15
days. 15-day extensions are easily granted in Vientiane
at the Immigration office. Custom formalities are relatively
simple as X-ray machines are increasingly popular. The
whole process usually takes 10-20 minutes, a bit longer
if several airplanes land more or less simultaneously.
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4. DO'S AND DON'T'S?
Commonsense prevails. Watch what the locals do. Generally speaking,
Lao culture is conservative. It is best to keep a low
profile while maintaining patience and poise. And remember,
wherever you go, local people will always be observing
you, primarily out of curiosity due to the fact that
foreigners are such a minority. Smile a lot. Laos is
a very personal place. Smiles are returned more quickly
than you might expect, even when you don’t speak the
local dialect.
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5. WHAT MONEY SHOULD I TAKE?
Travelers checks are accepted, and just about all credit cards
too. US dollars and Thai baht are equally welcome. It
is unnecessary to carry around wads of kip, the local
currency. Cash advances can be taken on major credit
cards in most Vientiane banks but there are no ATM machines
yet. International transfers can also be arranged—funds
can be available within 48-72 hours if you are in, say,
Vientiane.
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6. WHAT LANGUAGE WILL THEY UNDERSTAND?
English is the language of tourism. Russian no longer appears
anywhere. French is an endangered species. Guides are
available, however, who speak European languages. English
appears more and more on road and building signs. The
phonebook is printed in Lao and English. Cyber cafes
are popular--the staff, mostly young, will undoubtedly
speak English.
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7. HOW ABOUT MY HEALTH?
Foodstalls on sidewalks and roads are best avoided but hotel and
restaurant food is acceptable. Bottled water is a must.
Hotels have doctors on call and there is an International
Medical Clinic in Vientiane. If you are going on a daytrip,
it is advisable to take a box lunch prepared by your
hotel or guesthouse. But your guide, if you have one,
can provide good advice about clean eating establishments
along the way. Use insect repellant when traveling overland
as well as whenever eating at outdoor cafes, etc.
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8. WHAT FOOD WILL I FIND?
Travel destinations cater to foreigners. You will find international
cuisine of almost every description, including Indian,
Japanese and Korean. Hotel restaurants are a good place
to start and are not necessarily expensive. Then try
restaurants, like Kua Lao in Vientiane that specialize
in Lao dishes known to be popular with foreigners. Fish
and vegetables are local and excellent. Lao beer is
excellent. Locals prefer spicy food but chefs know that
foreigners prefer mild spices to strong ones. Still,
it is smart to remind your waitress to go light on the
sauce!
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9. HOW IS THE SHOPPING AND WHAT DO I TIP?
SHOPPING: It is designed for locals and not so much for
foreigners. But handicraft shops are on the increase.
The best buys are in Vientiane due to the competition
between vendors. Prices are seldom marked. Offer half
the amount quoted, then bargain to somewhere in-between.
Nobody is insulted. It is part of the fun of haggling,
and expected.
TIPPING: Many eating establishments add 10% to the bill
for service. Look for it. If it isn’t there, tip, say
10%. There is no need to tip tuk-tuk drivers or taxi
drivers unless you really want to, but always negotiate
the price of the ride first. Guides, by the way, look
for tips to supplement their modest salaries. Remember,
most waitresses, waiters and guides support their families
with the hard currencies they received as tips. Try
to be as generous as you can—it is sincerely appreciated,
especially after years of isolation and incomes below
the poverty line.
IMPORTANT BEWARES: There is no mass tourism. Thus Laos
remains very much a family place. In other words, everybody
knows everybody. Crime is practically unheard of. Look
for signs in airports and border checkpoints explaining
typical tuk-tuk and taxi fares to frequent destinations.
Should you experience anything odd or suspicious, contact
your hotel desk or the police. Local police are very
helpful. There is a strong sense of social responsibility
among officials of every stripe. Never be reluctant
to ask for assistance when you feel uncomfortable about
something. Officials have probably been there before.
They will know what to do—they are more efficient than
they may appear at first glance.
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